The Nostalgia of Sulfur

For most, the smell of sulfur is the epitome of noxiousness. For me it brings back fond memories of my grandmother’s kitchen. Not because her cooking was bad or that she particularly favored eggs, but because in Iceland hot water is pumped directly from geothermal springs, giving it that distinct odor. The cold water however is completely odorless and is some of the best tasting spring water in the world, straight out of the tap. You did have to remember to run the cold water for a few seconds before using it, otherwise that sulfur taste would sneak in from the last use of the hot water. For the first few days after arriving in the country, you’d practically have to hold your breath while taking a shower, but eventually you’d get used to it. On our last visit the only time we smelled it was on a day trip to see the geysers (side note: the largest geyser in Iceland is called Geysir, meaning “erupts”, whence the English word geyser derives). The trend in modern plumbing is to heat the nice, odorless cold water indirectly with the smelly hot water. Some day nobody will wax nostalgic upon smelling sulfur.